Russ and Daughters Press

Time Out New York

August 15, 2007


By Rebecca Flint Marx

 

It’s tough to say what’s best about the Super Heeb sandwich at Russ & Daughters (179 E Houston St between Allen and Orchard Sts, 212-475-4880). Is it the rich, nearly impossibly fluffy whitefish salad? The subtle kick of the double-whipped horseradish cream cheese? The reassuring chewiness of the hand-rolled, boiled bagel? Or the sinus-clearing pop of the wasabi-flavored flying-fish roe? Taken alone, each of these ingredients is cause for gastronomic celebration. United, they form a sandwich of such sublime power it could very well reform our health care system, lower the divorce rate and achieve peace between, if not warring nations, then at least Yankees and Red Sox fans. So you can love the sandwich, but can’t quite wrap your head around the name? Its somewhat provocative moniker, explains fourth-generation Russ Niki Russ Federman, comes from Heeb magazine, which ranked the sandwich as the world’s second-best food (and that was before the addition of wasabi roe). It’s one of the store’s more popular bites, especially, Federman says, among young Jews who “find the word sort of empowering.” Not exactly what bubbe intended, but her grandkids certainly seem to approve. (Without roe $7.45, with roe $9.45)


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