Russ and Daughters Press

The New York Times

January 18, 2006


FOOD STUFF; Roe Lovers, Rejoicing

Florence Fabricant

 

For lovers of roe, there are some interesting options to take the place of wild sturgeon caviar, which has been banned from export worldwide. One choice is the glistening orange eggs, below, from salmon that swim the Yukon River in Alaska. Delicate in taste and a rare treat, they can enhance canapés, crepes or a smoked salmon brunch. River Gold salmon caviar is $39.96 a pound, a fraction of the cost of sturgeon roe from the Caspian Sea, at Russ & Daughters, 179 East Houston Street (Allen Street). Another alternative is Granoff Malossol, a fake caviar manufactured in France. The beautiful black grains are made from chicken egg yolks and whites, fish oil, squid ink and salt. They have a firm texture and a mildly briny flavor that hints of hard-cooked egg. Because they hold up well to heat, they could add a touch of luxe to a pasta sauce, omelet or beurre blanc. A three-ounce jar is $28.95 at Garden of Eden stores, $29.95 at Morton Williams stores and $25.49 at Fairway markets.


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