Russ and Daughters Press

The Sunday Times of London

 


Troubled Stars Find Comfort in Caviar

By Dominic Rushe

 

“Anybody who is anybody buys their smoked salmon from Russ & Daughters. The shop, which first opened its doors on the lower east side of Manhattan in 1914, is the Louvre of lox. Russ’s is a tiny shop with a big staff. White mosaic floors and wall of pictures showing every Russ ever to slive salmon complete the shop’s old- fashioned look. But it is the food that people come for. Rose- pink Alaska belly lox, sunset-red Wild Western Nova, caviar, housed-cured herrings. With so much fine food coming through its doors, it’s no wonder that Russ’s is a magnet for the Manhattan’s muckety-mucks. Mark Russ Federman, grandson of the shop’s founder, Joel Russ, has been running the shop since 1978 and is unarguably the world’s best-connected smoked-salmon seller. The holidays season has been hell, says Federman. “We just can’t keep up.” People who wouldn’t wait in line for an audience with the Queen queue quietly out the door to get into Russ’s.”


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