Russ and Daughters Press

The Guardian

November 26, 2010

My travels: Anthony Bourdain's Favourite New York Restaurants

By Anthony Bourdain for The Guardian

I love old-school, hometown places. When it comes to Manhattan, this means places such as Katz's Deli, and Keen's, and Russ & Daughters, uniquely New York institutions that have survived the brutal caprices of style and changing tastes – and are still worth going out of your way to patronise.

The herring and smoked and cured fish they sell at Russ & Daughters would be just as desirable if the store were a spanking new gourmet shop – instead of a century-old institution that grew up from a street cart. The product speaks for itself. Russ & Daughters occupies that rare and tiny place on the mountaintop reserved for those who are not just the oldest and the last – but also the best.

My point? Patronise these places and you not only honour Manhattan's rich culinary and cultural tradition – you give yourself permission to relax and have a helluva good time.

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